Fencing Mask
A HEMA‑rated mask with a back‑of‑head protector. This covers your face, head, and throat. HEMA masks are rated to a higher impact standard than sport fencing masks, because longswords hit considerably harder than foils.
What we train with and what you might eventually own
A full sparring kit for everyone in the room, and the sabres to use it with.
Here is the thing: you do not need to own any of this. Most clubs lend a mask, a glove and a training sword to get you through your first weeks. We lend the lot. Jacket, mask, gloves, gorget, chest and limb protection, sabre or longsword: everything a member needs to spar from their first month, for as long as they need it. As far as we can find, no other club in the UK does that, and we believe we are the best‑equipped club in the country for loaner gear.
So your first Tuesday? Just turn up in comfortable clothes and trainers. Everything else is on the rack, and it stays on the rack for you until you decide you want your own. Nobody is going to prod you about it. Here is what is there.
Krieger S6
The sabre Akademia Szermierzy fences with.
HF Armory, rated 1000NFive large, four medium
HEMA-rated, with back-of-head protection.
HF Armory Firestone 2Small, medium and large
Padded at the fingers, knuckles and wrist, flexible enough to feel the sword.
HF Armory
Cover the throat, the chin and the collarbones, where the mask does not reach.
HF Armory Black Knight
Worn under the jacket for the thrusts.
SPES Vectir
Plated. A full-speed cut to the arm is nothing.
SPES AP Plus, 350NMen's medium to extra large, women's large to double extra large
The padded jacket that makes sparring possible.
Red Dragon
The club sword for paired practice, lent to everyone from the first night.
For paired practice with the synthetics.
HF Armory
For Fiore's dagger plays at speed. Arriving in October.
The armoury was bought for the club by our official sponsor, Wilderness Interactive.
The first instinct is to buy a sword. The smarter first purchase is gloves. Both come, in time.
Naturally, everyone's first instinct is to buy a sword. You are learning swordsmanship — of course you want a sword. But as Steve or Andrew will tell you on your first night, gloves are actually the smarter first purchase. Techniques in Fiore's system can target the hands, and they are also the most likely place to catch an accidental hit. Decent gloves change everything about how confidently you train. More on those in a moment.
You will still want your own nylon waster though, and soon. Everyone at the club has one. A nylon waster is a synthetic training longsword with the right shape, the right balance, a proper cross and pommel, and enough toughness to take thousands of hits. It is the sword you will use every Tuesday for paired technique work.
Almost everyone here uses a Red Dragon synthetic. The reason? They have a steel core running a third of the way up the blade, so they are not floppy like some cheaper synthetics, but they still have full flex where you want it. They are sized right for most people, they last, and they are about the most affordable way into the art you will find.
The other option worth knowing about is Black Fencer. Their edge‑shaped blade models are stiffer than their standard ones (which can be a bit floppy in the bind compared to Red Dragons). Black Fencer also does more sizes, including longer swords for taller practitioners. A longsword should reach roughly to your armpit when you stand it on the floor, so if you are six foot plus, that extra length genuinely matters.
The first hour of every session — technique, drilled with a partner.
The first hour of every session is technique. Steve and Andrew demonstrate a play from Fiore, break down the mechanics, and then everyone pairs up to practise it: alternating attacking and defending sides, learning the remedy, then the counter to the remedy, then the alternate versions. It builds up beautifully. And for all of that, you just need your waster and a pair of safety glasses. We have spares you can borrow, but pick up your own pair as soon as you can. They cost next to nothing from any hardware shop or online.
But gloves. Get gloves as soon as you can. Your hands are right out there at the end of the sword and they catch more incidental contact than anything else. Even in slow, controlled practice, a good pair of gloves changes the way you train. You stop flinching, you start committing to your techniques, and that is when the real learning kicks in. Red Dragon gloves or the HF Armory Firestone 2 are both solid starting options that will not break the bank.
Five pieces. The club lends all of them; here is what they do.
The second hour is where things get interesting. With the protective gear on, you can spar: free fencing against a partner, no set sequences, just everything you have been learning put to the test. The club lends the full set, so you can spar in your first weeks if you want to. Sparring is where you really start to feel the art come alive.
Here is what each piece does, so you know what you are putting on, and what to look for when you decide to buy your own:
A HEMA‑rated mask with a back‑of‑head protector. This covers your face, head, and throat. HEMA masks are rated to a higher impact standard than sport fencing masks, because longswords hit considerably harder than foils.
A padded jacket that absorbs the impact of strikes to your torso and arms. The club's loaner jackets are SPES, and most members who buy their own choose SPES too, or Red Dragon for a budget‑friendly option. A chest protector goes underneath for the thrusts.
Heavily padded around the fingers, knuckles, and wrist, but still flexible enough to let you grip and move the sword properly. You will want these well before you start sparring, and they make paired practice more comfortable too. Red Dragon gloves or the HF Armory Firestone 2 are solid budget‑friendly starting options. For steel sparring, the HF Armory Black Knight clamshell gloves are widely recommended in the HEMA community for longsword work.
A rigid throat protector worn under the mask. It covers the throat and upper chest where the mask does not quite reach, and some models extend to protect the collarbones too. Essential once you start doing any thrusting work.
Hard‑shell joint protectors. Fiore's system is full of grappling, locks, and throws, so your elbows and knees will thank you.
Vox Magistri · The Master's Voice
There is so much to this art, that there is no man in the world with so great a memory who could keep in their mind without books a fourth part of this art.— Fiore dei Liberi, Getty MS · prologue
Once you have full protective gear, the bind feels different.
This is the one people get excited about. Once you have full protective gear, you can spar with steel training swords, and the difference is something you feel immediately. The weight, the flex, the way steel responds when two blades meet in the bind. It changes how you think about distance, timing, commitment. Everything becomes more real.
Now, before you picture sharp medieval weapons flying around a leisure centre: training steel has no edge at all. The tips are spatulated (flattened and widened, which is the standard for safe thrusting) or rolled (curled back on themselves). Rounded tips are not safe enough for sparring, so you will not see those. And the blade itself has flex built into it, so when a thrust lands it gives on impact rather than driving all the force into one point. It is a real sword in every way that matters for training, and safe in every way that matters for going home in one piece.
Practically everyone at the club goes for historical profile swords with good flex rather than feders. A historical profile blade looks and handles like an actual longsword, and with the right flex it is perfectly safe for controlled sparring. The SIGI King with its medium flex is a popular choice around here. There are budget‑friendly options out there too, so do not write off steel as something way down the road.
One rule that never bends: nylon pairs with nylon, steel pairs with steel. Always. Steel would chip and damage a nylon blade, so they never mix.
Have a chat with Steve and Andrew before you buy one. They have been through the whole process themselves and they will point you toward something that suits your build and your budget.
The brands our members use and trust. Always speak to Steve or Andrew before you buy.
These are the brands and suppliers our members use and trust. Always talk to your instructors before making a purchase, but this is a good starting point for your own research.
We have everything you need for your first session. Just turn up in comfortable clothing and we will sort you out.